Thursday, May 7, 2009

Tips to make your mowing job more productive

At first glance, mowing a lawn doesn't look like a difficult job requiring much thought. We're just cutting grass - right?

"But lawn mowing done properly goes several steps farther than just firing up a lawn mower and cutting grass," says Gerald Alexander, Hempstead county extension agent with the University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture.

Mowing is a destructive practice to the plant because it removes a portion of leaf tissue that could be used to provide energy for the plant, he says. When leaf tissue is lost, the plant responds by redirecting energy from storage in the roots to producing more leaf tissue. If a lawn is cut too low, the plant has a more difficult time recovering because it lacks adequate leaf area to help it use soil nutrients efficiently.

Whenever mowing is necessary, never remove more than one-third of the leaf blade in a single mowing. For example, if you want your turfgrass to maintain a height of 3 inches, mow when the turfgrass stands 4.5 inches tall. This will normally translate into a once-weekly mowing pattern under ideal growing conditions, according to Alexander.

Mowing high is preferable to mowing low because overall plant health increases and weed competition decreases. The type of turfgrass in your lawn will determine how high your lawn should be mown.

The suggested mowing heights for common lawngrasses are: Centipede – 1.5 to 2 inches; St. Augustine grass – 2.5 to 4 inches; Zoysia grass – three-quarters of an inch to 2.5 inches; common Bermuda – 1.5 to 2.5 inches.

Alexander says he frequently hears questions concerning grass clippings left on the lawn.

It used to be thought that grass clippings contributed to thatch buildup. However, research has shown that grass clippings don't contribute to thatch buildup. Clippings are actually good for the soil because they return nutrients to the soil when they decompose.

"As long as you don't allow your lawngrass to become excessively high between mowings, you don't need to bag them. Clippings are often bagged because people fear the spread of lawn diseases through the return of lawn clippings. The spores that cause lawn disease are present whether clippings are returned or bagged," says Alexander.

Lawns are best mown when the turf is dry. The clippings are more evenly distributed on a dry lawn than a wet lawn. Wet mowing wet causes the clippings to clump and clog the mower. These clumps will then need to be picked up to prevent smothering the turfgrass beneath. Wet mowing also opens the door for disease organisms to enter the plant. Slipping and tearing turfgrasses are other reasons not to mow under wet conditions.

When lawn mowers are operating, he says, always pay close attention to safety. A mower blade can pick up an object from the ground and throw it with a velocity strong enough to damage cars, houses and inflict serious harm to humans and animals.

Additional information on lawn mowing can be found in the publications section of our web site, or at your county extension service office. The Cooperative Extension Service is part of the U of A Division of Agriculture.

Wednesday, May 6, 2009

Plant Health Clinic Newsletter #10 May 6, 2009


The weekly Plant Health Clinic Newsletter is available here.

Inside this edition you will find information about Photinia leaf spot, Elm black spot, Slime flux in trees, Botrytis blight on Heuchera and Mummyberry blight on Blueberries.

As always you can get more help with diseased plants from
your local county extension office.

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Plant Health Clinic Newsletter #9 May 1, 2009


The weekly Plant Health Clinic Newsletter is available here.

Inside this edition you will find information about Aphid Damage to Iris, Glyphosate Injury on Tomatoes, Anthracnose on Ash, Maple, and Sycamore, and Patch diseases of turf.

As always you can get more help with diseased plants from
your local county extension office.

Thursday, April 30, 2009

2009 Quapaw Quarter Spring Tour of Historic Homes


Our 2009 Spring Tour will be here in just a couple of weeks! Here are some of the details of this special event.

About the Tour

The Quapaw Quarter Association's 45th Annual Spring Tour of Historic Homes will feature five private homes, the newest addition to Little Rock historic downtown inns, and one of Little Rock's most historic churches. This year's event, Historic Downtown Little Rock: Something for Everyone, will be held May 10, 2009, from 1:00 to 5:00 p.m.

Little Rock's historic downtown encompasses many neighborhoods and is enriched by the great diversity of architectural styles as well as the people who call the area home. From the grand mansions and cozy bungalows of the 19th Century to the converted commercial spaces and new construction of the 21st Century, downtown truly has something for everyone's taste and budget.

The Quapaw Quarter Association promotes the preservation of Little Rock's architectural heritage through advocacy, marketing and education. Founded in the early 1960s, the Quapaw Quarter Association is a Local Partner of the National Trust for Historic Preservation. The annual Spring Tour has been a Quapaw Quarter Association tradition since 1963.

About the Homes

This year's tour will include the Foster-Robinson House (ca. 1905) at 2122 S. Broadway; the Senhausen House (ca. 1902) at 2319 S. Gaines; Rosehaven Cottages Bed & Breakfast (ca. 1890) at 1410-1412 S. Arch St.; the Nelson Auto Garage (Warehouse Lofts, ca. 1914) at 1509 S. Louisiana; the Annie Ward Cottage (ca. 1880) at 1508 S. Louisiana, as well as a newly constructed condominium in the River Market District.

This year's tour also features one of Little Rock most historic and beautiful churches, the Cathedral of St. Andrew at 617 S. Louisiana St. Begun in 1878 and completed in 1881, the Cathedral is Little Rock oldest church building. In recent years, the church has undergone extensive restoration, bringing its original beauty and craftsmanship back to life.

During the afternoon of the tour, local realtors will host open houses in many other historic homes currently for sale in the area.

The Details

This year's tour will be held Sunday, May 10, from 1:00 to 5:00 p.m. Tickets are $15per person and can be purchased by calling 501-371-0075. Tickets may also be purchased at the Little Rock Visitor Information Center at Historic Curran Hall, 615 E. Capitol Avenue. Tickets will be available the day of the tour at Curran Hall and at selected locations along the tour route. Proceeds benefit the historic preservation programs of the QQA. For more information, please call 501-371-0075.

Monday, April 27, 2009

Polk County MG Plant Sale Re-scheduled


Due to the tornado, the Polk County Master Gardeners Plant sale has been postponed until Saturday, May 16, at McMillan Park in Mena, AR.

Thursday, April 23, 2009

Plant Southern Peas that Sell!

Gardeners and farmers will soon be planting southern peas, but which varieties should they plant? The determining factor should be the market, advises Dr. Obadiah Njue, Cooperative Extension Program horticulture specialist at the University of Arkansas at Pine Bluff (UAPB). Small acreage farmers and serious gardeners must be sure that the varieties they grow are ones they can sell.

Some varieties sell better when shelled, says Dr. Njue. A bushel of one variety (unshelled) will not necessarily yield the same amount when shelled, and the differences may be varietal or production conditions, says Dr. Njue.


Before choosing which variety to grow, Dr. Njue advises considering the results of the 2007 and 2008 field studies at UAPB. Fresh pea (seed) yield, fresh pod yield and shell-out percentages were evaluated by Dr. Shadrach Okiror, UAPB associate professor and plant breeder.


Four of the most commonly grown varieties in Arkansas – 'Epic,' 'Top-pick Pinkeye,' 'Early Scarlet' and 'Louisiana Quick Pick' (LA-Quick Pick), all bush-erect varieties – have been evaluated by Dr. Okiror. These varieties have pods that are set at the top of the canopy, making them easier to harvest, either by hand or mechanically.


'Early Scarlet,' a purple hull pea, had the highest fresh pea yield of 2,201 pounds per acre and the highest fresh pod yield of 4,402 pounds per acre. It had a shell-out percentage of 50 percent. 'Top-pick Pinkeye,' another purple hull pea, yielded 2,161 pounds per acre and a fresh pod yield of 4,322 pounds per acre and also a shell-out percentage of 50 percent.


On the other hand, 'LA Quick Pick,' a purple hull pea, and 'Epic,' a brown crowder pea, had only 40 percent and 42 percent shell-out percentages, respectively. 'LA Quick Pick' had a fresh-pea yield of 1,536 pounds per acre and a fresh pod yield of 3,840 pounds per acre. 'Epic' had a fresh pea yield of 1,675 pounds per acre and a fresh pod yield of 3,988 pounds per acre.


The top two (both shelled and in pods) favorites in the market place are 'Top-pick Pinkeye' and 'LA Quick Pick," says Dr. Njue. 'Top-pick Pinkeye' ranked second of the four varieties evaluated by Dr. Okiror in both fresh pea yield and fresh pod yield while 'LA Quick Pick' was fourth. Farmers should keep this in mind when planting, says Dr. Njue.


The older runner/creeping or climbing varieties, 'Coronet' for example, are ideal for backyard gardens or growers planning to use manual labor for harvesting. These older varieties flower and set pods over an extended period and the pods can be picked over several days.


Dr. Njue advises those selling peas at farmers' markets to inform customers of the nutritive value of southern peas, which are highly nutritious, so that nutrition rather than appearance becomes important. Peas are good sources of protein and rich in amino acids, lysine and tryptophan.

Plant of the Week - Clematis

As spring revs up, mailboxes and decorative light posts are draped with color this time of year as their adorning clematis vines bloom. Of all the flowering vines, clematis varieties are, without question, the most beautiful.

But clematis are not without their frustrations, not the least of which is what to call them. Is it "Clemm-it-is" as the British say or "Clem-at-us" as the southern drawl would imply?


Clematis have a reputation for being temperamental beauties that many have tried but given up on. Most are English or French imports where they flourish in the cool, moist maritime climate of the region. But, they can be grown in the South without a great deal of difficulty, if you pay close attention to site selection and soil preparation.


Their range in bloom size and color is remarkable, but centered around shades of white, blue and pink, which are typical color ranges for members of the ranunculus family to which the plant belongs. Flowers may be single, with only four petals (really sepals), to many-times doubled. Most of the spring-blooming kinds have flowers approaching the size of a saucer while some of our native types have blooms the size of a quarter.


Like many plants with beautiful flowers, their necessary vegetative growth is not the most beautiful in the flowery kingdom. Plants grow as a tangle of thin-branched vines. Dead stems often accumulate in the tangle, giving the plant a less than tidy appearance. Clematis vines are new at the business of climbing, so they sprawl about the landscape, looking for something to support them. The stems weave and twine but most of the support for climbing comes from the leaf petioles that twist around anything in their path. Clematis are controlled growers, seldom growing more than 6 or 8 feet tall.


Clematis grow best in rich, well-drained limey soils with a pH between 6.5 and 7.0. They can be grown from zones 4 through 8. These small vines can be used to adorn the mailbox, cover a chain length fence or trained up a porch railing or trellis. They are not rampant enough to use for covering a large arbor.


The recommended planting site for clematis vines is to have their "head in the sun and their feet in the shade." To bloom well they need six hours of sunlight a day, but avoid hot dry locations. In hotter regions, plant them where they get afternoon shade or at the base of a wall where their roots are kept cool while their top is allowed to run.


These beauties are sold as hybrids, always with a nice color tag showing the bloom. Unfortunately, you need to know a bit more about the plant if you're going to prune it effectively. Most clematis hybrids (the Florida group, Lanuginosa group and the Patens group) bloom on year-old vines in the spring, so they shouldn't be pruned until after they have flowered. Pruning can be severe, cutting the vines back as much as needed to control growth and remove any untidiness.


The Jackmanii group and the Viticella group are summer flowering, so they can be cut back in the spring and will flower in the summer. But truthfully, I don't see a lot of people pruning their clematis vines. And, unless you are a "neatnick" unable to tolerate a bit of unruliness, pruning doesn't seem critical for a good bloom display. Nipping here and there to keep the plant in bounds can be done at any season.


For more information about horticulture and to see other "Plant of the Week" columns or visit extension's Web site. You can always contact your county extension agent. The Cooperative Extension Service is part of the U of A Division of Agriculture.