Additional Information for GardenWalk - Faulkner County

Here is additional information for GardenWalk hosted by the Faulkner County Master Gardeners.

Faulkner County Master Gardeners is hosting GardenWalk, which includes seven gardens in west Conway that showcase the drama and beauty of Mother Nature. Each garden reflects the homeowner’s sense of style through the use of plant materials and hardscape.

GardenWalk 2009 is slated for Saturday, May 23, from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., and tickets are $10 a person or $8 per person for groups of five or more. Tickets include a program detailing each garden. Advance tickets can be purchased at the FCMG Plant Sale on Saturday, May 16 from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. or at the Cooperative Extension Office at Amity and Middle Roads or by calling 501-329-4849. Tickets will also be available at any of the seven gardens.

UPDATED! Farmers' market producers invited to pest management workshops

CORRECTION: A news release dated May 4 listed the wrong date for the workshop in Conway. The correct date is June 10.

Workshops on environmentally responsible and effective pest management for farmers' market producers and other small acreage farmers will be held at three locations in May and June.

The workshops will be held in Monticello May 18, in Conway June 10 and in Fayetteville June 22, from 8:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. at each location. The workshops are sponsored by the University of Arkansas System’s Division of Agriculture and the Kerr Center for Sustainable Agriculture, based in Poteau, Okla.

Elena Garcia, extension horticulture specialist with the Division of Agriculture, said the workshops are free, but space is limited, and advance registration is required. Contact Carolyn Lewis, 479-264-0905, calewis@uark.edu, to register.

The location and workshop materials will be provided to those who register. Lunch and educational materials are provided by a grant from the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.

“Whether you use organic or conventional practices, this workshop can help you evaluate your pest management program,” Garcia said. The workshops will include classroom presentations and hands-on sessions in the field, she said.

Arkansas State Daylily Society 2009 Tour

The Arkansas State Daylily Society is pleased to announce its 2009 daylily tour. Gardeners from across the state are welcome to register and tour four gardens in central Arkansas on Saturday, June 6, 2009.

Hundreds of classic and newly introduced daylilies will be on display while nestled in perennial borders among unique companion plants.

On display will be the gardens of Sharon and Michael Aureli and Marianne and Tom Flammang in Mayflower, Pat and Patricia Larsen in Conway, and Jim and Kathy Elliot of Wooster.

The Society also welcomes Herbie Phelps, who will open the tour Friday evening (6: PM, June 5th) at the Hilton Garden Inn in Conway, Arkansas.

Phelps is the owner of Wonderland of Daylilies in Magnolia, Kentucky and is considered one of the country’s leading, new hybridizers. He will present a slide show on his award-winning hybridizing program and provide helpful tips on raising daylilies. Arkansas gardeners and daylily enthusiasts alike will find Phelps’s program entertaining and especially useful given the similarity between his growing climate and ours.

The cost for registration is $25.00 per adult and covers supper on Friday night, a continental breakfast, and lunch on Saturday.

Reservation checks should be made out to the Arkansas Daylily Society and sent by May 30th to Carey Roberts, 2008 W 8th St, Russellville, Arkansas 72801. Late registration will cost $30.00 and can be paid Friday evening at the hotel site or at 7:30 AM, Saturday morning at the first tour garden l (8 River Road East, Mayflower). Gift plants will be provided as well, and a small auction of Phelps introductions is planned.

For more information, please contact Carey Roberts by email or telephone (479-964-5115). Maps and directions for the tour locations will be provided upon registration.

UPDATED! Polk County Master Gardener Plant Sale

This is an update on the Polk County Master Gardener Plant Sale that was previously rescheduled due to the tornado and damage it caused to the community.

Polk County Master Gardener Plant Sale - NEW LOCATION - Polk County Fairground Livestock

The Polk County Master Gardeners Plant sale has been postponed until Saturday, May 16, at the Polk County Fairground Livestock barn in Mena, AR.

Sharpen mower blades for a clean-cut, healthier lawn

A sharp lawnmower blade pays off for the homeowner in the long run, says Dr. Aaron Patton, assistant professor/extension horticulture specialist for turfgrass with the University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture.

“A cleanly cut lawn helps increase turf health by improving recovery from mowing, decreasing water loss and increasing photosynthesis,” says Patton. “Aesthetically speaking, a clean cut lawn looks better.”

A dull mower blade causes leaf cut injury that heals slowly and causes greater water loss in the lawn.

Sharpen mower blades at least twice a year, or more often, for larger lawns, Patton recommends. Commercial users should sharpen mower blades at least every 40 hours.
Rotary mowers are greatly preferred by homeowners, although self-powered reel mowers are gaining popularity, says Patton.

“Rotary mowers work by cutting the grass blades in an impact, machete-type cut. This cut is less precise and often more damaging to the leaf blade than a reel mower cut,” he says. “The potential to scalp a lawn is higher when using a rotary mower, but the height of cut is easy to change and blades are easy to sharpen.”

Patton says blades on a reel mower (bedknife and reel system) should be sharpened by a professional.

To determine if your mower blade needs sharpening, kneel down and examine grass cuts. If a white fibrous tissue – the vascular system of the plant – is sticking out of the leaf blade ends, it’s a good indication that your mower blade needs sharpened.

“If you’re not comfortable with tools, hire a professional to sharpen your rotary blade,” says Patton. “For those do-it-yourself types, mowers blades can be sharpened fairly easily.”
Some shops specialize in sharpening equipment such as axes, mower blades, chainsaws, knives, etc.

“For the do-it-yourselfers, tool options include a file and vise or vise and angle grinder or bench grinder,” says Patton. Please wear appropriate safety equipment such as leather gloves and eye protection, when using any powered grinder, he advises

How do you decide when it’s time to invest in a new blade.

“When your blade becomes pitted or has been sharpened multiple times. My recommendation is for most homeowners to own two sets of blades,” he says. “Sharpen them both during the winter months and then replace one set half way through the summer.”

For more information about mowing your lawn and a comparison of reel and rotary mowers, see FSA6023 “Mowing Your Lawn” For more information about lawn mower safety, see FSA1005 “Lawn Mower Safety.”

For more information on how to sharpen a mower blade, do an online search for video instructions.

You can get a copy of the publications at your county extension office or go to the Cooperative Extension Service web site and select Publications, then Alphabetical List of All Publications.

The Cooperative Extension Service is part of the U of A Division of Agriculture.

Hummingbird migration flits through Arkansas

The first hummingbirds of the season are passing through the Natural State, so enjoy them while they last, says Randy Feagin, White County Master Gardener.

Master Gardeners is an extension program of the University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture.

Of the 340 known species of hummingbirds, only 21 reach the United States. Until recently, the only one to nest in Arkansas was the ruby-throated hummingbird, says Feagin. Last year, rufous hummingbirds were seen in some southern counties.

"The vanguard of the ruby-throated hummer migration has started, and so we are seeing a few males passing through on their way to the northern states and southern Canada," says Feagin. Males are easily identified by their gorgets—bright and iridescent feathers on their heads. Females are green with gray backs and breasts.

These "beautiful flying jewels," he says, are heading north from their wintering grounds in Mexico and Central America. Powerful wing muscles and fat reserves allow hummingbirds to make this migration several times over their five- to six-year lifespan.

The normal flight speed of hummingbirds is 25-30 miles per hour with about 80 wing beats per second, but can increase to 200 beats per hour in dives that can reach 65 miles per hour, says Feagin.

In other words, they can get here in a hurry.

Get those hummingbird feeders out now – once the days get longer, hummingbirds will start establishing territories for their breeding season. Keep your feeders full through the fall to bring in hummingbirds on a regular basis, says Feagin.

"After most of their kind have started their return migration south, juvenile birds may still arrive seeking nectar," he says. "By keeping your feeders full, you serve as a way-station on their way." Hummingbirds migrate by the length of day, not the amount of available food, so this pit-stop will not hinder their migration at all, he says.

For more information on hummingbirds and their migration, contact your county Extension office or visit the Cooperative Extension Service, which is a part of the University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture.

Farmers' market producers invited to pest management workshops

Workshops on environmentally responsible and effective pest management for farmers' market producers and other small acreage farmers will be held at three locations in May and June.

The workshops will be held in Monticello May 18, in Conway June 22 and in Fayetteville June 22, from 8:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. at each location. The workshops are sponsored by the University of Arkansas System's Division of Agriculture and the Kerr Center for Sustainable Agriculture, based in Poteau, Okla.

Dr. Elena Garcia, extension horticulture specialist with the Division of Agriculture, said the workshops are free, but space is limited, and advance registration is required. Contact Carolyn Lewis by email or telephone at 479-264-0905 to register.

The location and workshop materials will be provided to those who register. Lunch and educational materials are provided by a grant from the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.

"Whether you use organic or conventional practices, this workshop can help you evaluate your pest management program," Garcia said. The workshops will include classroom presentations and hands-on sessions in the field, she said.

Tips to make your mowing job more productive

At first glance, mowing a lawn doesn't look like a difficult job requiring much thought. We're just cutting grass - right?

"But lawn mowing done properly goes several steps farther than just firing up a lawn mower and cutting grass," says Gerald Alexander, Hempstead county extension agent with the University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture.

Mowing is a destructive practice to the plant because it removes a portion of leaf tissue that could be used to provide energy for the plant, he says. When leaf tissue is lost, the plant responds by redirecting energy from storage in the roots to producing more leaf tissue. If a lawn is cut too low, the plant has a more difficult time recovering because it lacks adequate leaf area to help it use soil nutrients efficiently.

Whenever mowing is necessary, never remove more than one-third of the leaf blade in a single mowing. For example, if you want your turfgrass to maintain a height of 3 inches, mow when the turfgrass stands 4.5 inches tall. This will normally translate into a once-weekly mowing pattern under ideal growing conditions, according to Alexander.

Mowing high is preferable to mowing low because overall plant health increases and weed competition decreases. The type of turfgrass in your lawn will determine how high your lawn should be mown.

The suggested mowing heights for common lawngrasses are: Centipede – 1.5 to 2 inches; St. Augustine grass – 2.5 to 4 inches; Zoysia grass – three-quarters of an inch to 2.5 inches; common Bermuda – 1.5 to 2.5 inches.

Alexander says he frequently hears questions concerning grass clippings left on the lawn.

It used to be thought that grass clippings contributed to thatch buildup. However, research has shown that grass clippings don't contribute to thatch buildup. Clippings are actually good for the soil because they return nutrients to the soil when they decompose.

"As long as you don't allow your lawngrass to become excessively high between mowings, you don't need to bag them. Clippings are often bagged because people fear the spread of lawn diseases through the return of lawn clippings. The spores that cause lawn disease are present whether clippings are returned or bagged," says Alexander.

Lawns are best mown when the turf is dry. The clippings are more evenly distributed on a dry lawn than a wet lawn. Wet mowing wet causes the clippings to clump and clog the mower. These clumps will then need to be picked up to prevent smothering the turfgrass beneath. Wet mowing also opens the door for disease organisms to enter the plant. Slipping and tearing turfgrasses are other reasons not to mow under wet conditions.

When lawn mowers are operating, he says, always pay close attention to safety. A mower blade can pick up an object from the ground and throw it with a velocity strong enough to damage cars, houses and inflict serious harm to humans and animals.

Additional information on lawn mowing can be found in the publications section of our web site, or at your county extension service office. The Cooperative Extension Service is part of the U of A Division of Agriculture.

Plant Health Clinic Newsletter #10 May 6, 2009

The weekly Plant Health Clinic Newsletter is available here.

Inside this edition you will find information about Photinia leaf spot, Elm black spot, Slime flux in trees, Botrytis blight on Heuchera and Mummyberry blight on Blueberries.

As always you can get more help with diseased plants from your local county extension office.

Plant Health Clinic Newsletter #9 May 1, 2009

The weekly Plant Health Clinic Newsletter is available here.

Inside this edition you will find information about Aphid Damage to Iris, Glyphosate Injury on Tomatoes, Anthracnose on Ash, Maple, and Sycamore, and Patch diseases of turf.

As always you can get more help with diseased plants from your local county extension office.

2009 Quapaw Quarter Spring Tour of Historic Homes

Our 2009 Spring Tour will be here in just a couple of weeks! Here are some of the details of this special event.

About the Tour

The Quapaw Quarter Association's 45th Annual Spring Tour of Historic Homes will feature five private homes, the newest addition to Little Rock historic downtown inns, and one of Little Rock's most historic churches. This year's event, Historic Downtown Little Rock: Something for Everyone, will be held May 10, 2009, from 1:00 to 5:00 p.m.

Little Rock's historic downtown encompasses many neighborhoods and is enriched by the great diversity of architectural styles as well as the people who call the area home. From the grand mansions and cozy bungalows of the 19th Century to the converted commercial spaces and new construction of the 21st Century, downtown truly has something for everyone's taste and budget.

The Quapaw Quarter Association promotes the preservation of Little Rock's architectural heritage through advocacy, marketing and education. Founded in the early 1960s, the Quapaw Quarter Association is a Local Partner of the National Trust for Historic Preservation. The annual Spring Tour has been a Quapaw Quarter Association tradition since 1963.

About the Homes

This year's tour will include the Foster-Robinson House (ca. 1905) at 2122 S. Broadway; the Senhausen House (ca. 1902) at 2319 S. Gaines; Rosehaven Cottages Bed & Breakfast (ca. 1890) at 1410-1412 S. Arch St.; the Nelson Auto Garage (Warehouse Lofts, ca. 1914) at 1509 S. Louisiana; the Annie Ward Cottage (ca. 1880) at 1508 S. Louisiana, as well as a newly constructed condominium in the River Market District.

This year's tour also features one of Little Rock most historic and beautiful churches, the Cathedral of St. Andrew at 617 S. Louisiana St. Begun in 1878 and completed in 1881, the Cathedral is Little Rock oldest church building. In recent years, the church has undergone extensive restoration, bringing its original beauty and craftsmanship back to life.

During the afternoon of the tour, local realtors will host open houses in many other historic homes currently for sale in the area.

The Details

This year's tour will be held Sunday, May 10, from 1:00 to 5:00 p.m. Tickets are $15per person and can be purchased by calling 501-371-0075. Tickets may also be purchased at the Little Rock Visitor Information Center at Historic Curran Hall, 615 E. Capitol Avenue. Tickets will be available the day of the tour at Curran Hall and at selected locations along the tour route. Proceeds benefit the historic preservation programs of the QQA. For more information, please call 501-371-0075.

Polk County MG Plant Sale Re-scheduled

Due to the tornado, the Polk County Master Gardeners Plant sale has been postponed until Saturday, May 16, at McMillan Park in Mena, AR.

Plant Southern Peas that Sell!

Gardeners and farmers will soon be planting southern peas, but which varieties should they plant? The determining factor should be the market, advises Dr. Obadiah Njue, Cooperative Extension Program horticulture specialist at the University of Arkansas at Pine Bluff (UAPB). Small acreage farmers and serious gardeners must be sure that the varieties they grow are ones they can sell.

Some varieties sell better when shelled, says Dr. Njue. A bushel of one variety (unshelled) will not necessarily yield the same amount when shelled, and the differences may be varietal or production conditions, says Dr. Njue.

Before choosing which variety to grow, Dr. Njue advises considering the results of the 2007 and 2008 field studies at UAPB. Fresh pea (seed) yield, fresh pod yield and shell-out percentages were evaluated by Dr. Shadrach Okiror, UAPB associate professor and plant breeder.

Four of the most commonly grown varieties in Arkansas – 'Epic,' 'Top-pick Pinkeye,' 'Early Scarlet' and 'Louisiana Quick Pick' (LA-Quick Pick), all bush-erect varieties – have been evaluated by Dr. Okiror. These varieties have pods that are set at the top of the canopy, making them easier to harvest, either by hand or mechanically.

'Early Scarlet,' a purple hull pea, had the highest fresh pea yield of 2,201 pounds per acre and the highest fresh pod yield of 4,402 pounds per acre. It had a shell-out percentage of 50 percent. 'Top-pick Pinkeye,' another purple hull pea, yielded 2,161 pounds per acre and a fresh pod yield of 4,322 pounds per acre and also a shell-out percentage of 50 percent.

On the other hand, 'LA Quick Pick,' a purple hull pea, and 'Epic,' a brown crowder pea, had only 40 percent and 42 percent shell-out percentages, respectively. 'LA Quick Pick' had a fresh-pea yield of 1,536 pounds per acre and a fresh pod yield of 3,840 pounds per acre. 'Epic' had a fresh pea yield of 1,675 pounds per acre and a fresh pod yield of 3,988 pounds per acre.

The top two (both shelled and in pods) favorites in the market place are 'Top-pick Pinkeye' and 'LA Quick Pick," says Dr. Njue. 'Top-pick Pinkeye' ranked second of the four varieties evaluated by Dr. Okiror in both fresh pea yield and fresh pod yield while 'LA Quick Pick' was fourth. Farmers should keep this in mind when planting, says Dr. Njue.

The older runner/creeping or climbing varieties, 'Coronet' for example, are ideal for backyard gardens or growers planning to use manual labor for harvesting. These older varieties flower and set pods over an extended period and the pods can be picked over several days.

Dr. Njue advises those selling peas at farmers' markets to inform customers of the nutritive value of southern peas, which are highly nutritious, so that nutrition rather than appearance becomes important. Peas are good sources of protein and rich in amino acids, lysine and tryptophan.

Plant of the Week - Clematis

As spring revs up, mailboxes and decorative light posts are draped with color this time of year as their adorning clematis vines bloom. Of all the flowering vines, clematis varieties are, without question, the most beautiful.

But clematis are not without their frustrations, not the least of which is what to call them. Is it "Clemm-it-is" as the British say or "Clem-at-us" as the southern drawl would imply?

Clematis have a reputation for being temperamental beauties that many have tried but given up on. Most are English or French imports where they flourish in the cool, moist maritime climate of the region. But, they can be grown in the South without a great deal of difficulty, if you pay close attention to site selection and soil preparation.

Their range in bloom size and color is remarkable, but centered around shades of white, blue and pink, which are typical color ranges for members of the ranunculus family to which the plant belongs. Flowers may be single, with only four petals (really sepals), to many-times doubled. Most of the spring-blooming kinds have flowers approaching the size of a saucer while some of our native types have blooms the size of a quarter.

Like many plants with beautiful flowers, their necessary vegetative growth is not the most beautiful in the flowery kingdom. Plants grow as a tangle of thin-branched vines. Dead stems often accumulate in the tangle, giving the plant a less than tidy appearance. Clematis vines are new at the business of climbing, so they sprawl about the landscape, looking for something to support them. The stems weave and twine but most of the support for climbing comes from the leaf petioles that twist around anything in their path. Clematis are controlled growers, seldom growing more than 6 or 8 feet tall.

Clematis grow best in rich, well-drained limey soils with a pH between 6.5 and 7.0. They can be grown from zones 4 through 8. These small vines can be used to adorn the mailbox, cover a chain length fence or trained up a porch railing or trellis. They are not rampant enough to use for covering a large arbor.

The recommended planting site for clematis vines is to have their "head in the sun and their feet in the shade." To bloom well they need six hours of sunlight a day, but avoid hot dry locations. In hotter regions, plant them where they get afternoon shade or at the base of a wall where their roots are kept cool while their top is allowed to run.

These beauties are sold as hybrids, always with a nice color tag showing the bloom. Unfortunately, you need to know a bit more about the plant if you're going to prune it effectively. Most clematis hybrids (the Florida group, Lanuginosa group and the Patens group) bloom on year-old vines in the spring, so they shouldn't be pruned until after they have flowered. Pruning can be severe, cutting the vines back as much as needed to control growth and remove any untidiness.

The Jackmanii group and the Viticella group are summer flowering, so they can be cut back in the spring and will flower in the summer. But truthfully, I don't see a lot of people pruning their clematis vines. And, unless you are a "neatnick" unable to tolerate a bit of unruliness, pruning doesn't seem critical for a good bloom display. Nipping here and there to keep the plant in bounds can be done at any season.

For more information about horticulture and to see other "Plant of the Week" columns or visit extension's Web site. You can always contact your county extension agent. The Cooperative Extension Service is part of the U of A Division of Agriculture.

U of A Turfgrass Program - Turf Tips

University of Arkansas, Division of Agriculture, Cooperative Extension Service

Turfgrass Science Program - Turf Tips

1. Spring dead spot is now appearing for many
2. Sharpen your mower blades
3. Spreading tall fescue?
4. When to fertilize your lawn?
5. Mark your calendar for the Turfgrass Field Day: Wednesday, August 5, 2009

Read the entire turf tip articles.

As always contact your local county extension agent with any lawn issues.

Plant Health Clinic Newsletter #8, April 20, 2009

The weekly Plant Health Clinic Newsletter is available here.

Inside this edition you will find information about Strawberry Leather Rot, Iris Leaf Spot, Peony Phytophthora Blight and Peach Leaf Curl.

As always you can get more help with diseased plants from your local county extension office.

Janet Carson in Fayetteville

Janet Carson will be speaking in Fayetteville on April 27, 2009, from 6:30pm to 8:30pm at the Washington County Extension Office.

Her topic is Trees, Shrubs and Shade Gardening.

The public is invited to attend this event for a $5.00 charge. For Master Gardeners there is no charge to attend.

Contact the Washington County Extension Office for more information at 479-444-1755.

Spring In The Hills - Tour of Gardens

Spring in the Hills Tour of Gardens presented by the Little Rock Council of Garden Clubs.

Ten beautiful gardens located on Edgehill, and in the Heights and Hillcrest areas will be available for touring on Saturday, May 2 from 9:00 am - 5:00 pm and Sunday, May 3 from 1:00 pm - 5:00 pm.

Tickets are $20 in advance and $25 at the door and can be purchased at most local nurseries or by calling 663-7515.

Janet Carson will be telecasting her radio show on Saturday morning from one of the gardens. Garden Experts will be available at all gardens.

"Spring... A Time To Till" Garden Workshop May 2nd

The Master Gardeners of Nevada County are offering a workshop for garden enthusiasts on May 2nd in Prescott at the Central Baptist Church, Stokes Center. The workshop will begin at 9:00 a.m. continuing until 3:45 p.m.

Participants will enjoy presentations from Sandy Nall - Daylilies Not Just A Pretty Face , Patty Bishop - Herb Chat, Larry Averill - Coleus Foliage Wonders, and Bob Byers - Design with Color.

Pre-registration is requested. Cost to attend is $15.00 per person and includes lunch. For additional information contact the Nevada County Extension Office either through email or at 870-887-2818.

Proceeds from the day will fund ongoing Nevada County Master Gardener community projects.

Gardenwalk 2009 - Conway, Faulkner County

The Faulkner County Master Gardeners will host the second Gardenwalk on Saturday, May 23rd, from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Gardenwalk 2009 will feature six gardens in west Conway, showcasing mostly sun gardens. Some of the gardens feature pool landscaping, and others highlight creative use of grasses, perennials and annuals.

Tickets can be purchased at each garden for $10, and advance tickets can be purchased for $8 at the Conway Chamber of Commerce.

Tickets will also be available Faulkner County MG Plant Sale on May 16 at the County Fairgrounds.

For more information contact Jan Spann.

Plant Health Clinic News, Issue #7, April 13, 2009

The Plant Health Clinic News is a valuable resource that is created by Sherrie Smith, and I wanted to let everyone know about it. Sherrie is our very own Plant Diagnostician located in Lonoke.

The Plant Health Clinic News is always available to you online, and it is kept very relevant to plant health issues that are occuring as we speak.

In the current issue you can find information about Lettuce drop, Ivy anthracnose, Rose midge, and Stubby-root nematodes.

The current issue is here, and previous issues can be found here.

Herb Chats Seminar - Clark County

An herb seminar titled Herb Chats will be hosted by the Clark County Master Gardeners and held on Thursday, April 23 from 6:00 p.m. until 8:00 p.m. The seminar will be held at the Clark County Fairgrounds and presented by Patty Bishop of the Red Dirt Master Gardeners in Miller County.

If you know of others that might be interested, I have a flyer that could be used for promotion. Email me and I will forward it to you.

Plant of the Week: Wild Gingers (Asarum canadense)

In my shade garden grow several wild gingers, members of the genus Asarum. Over the years, most have spread happily, wheedling their way into nooks and crannies around the garden and into my affection as well. Based on the amount of scientific ink that has been spilled on this group of lowly plants, I'm not the only one who has found them intriguing.

Asarums are temperate groundcovers of the northern hemisphere and occurs widely in North America, Europe and Asia. They belong to the small tropical birthwort family (Aristolochiaceae) that's best known for its unusual "Dutchman's pipe" flowers. The Asarums apparently originated in Asia but had spread across the ancient landmasses before the continents went their separate ways.

The most common and prolific of my wild gingers is Asarum canadense. It's a 6-inch tall creeping groundcover that spreads by means of fleshy, pinkie sized rhizomes, eventually forming colonies several feet across. It produces heart-shaped, deciduous 4-inch wide leaves that appear in early spring and persist until the first hard freezes of fall.

Asarum flowers appear in early spring with the new leaves, but they're easily overlooked because they emerge buried beneath leaves and other debris of the forest floor. They're borne singly at the end of a rhizome and are ½-inch long and wide, fuzzy, brown in color with three reflexed sepals. Though interesting, they're not all that showy.

But amongst botanists, the flowers have caused lots of controversy. Structurally, the flowers are arranged in such a way that it's obvious there should be something out there cross-pollinating them. Everything from slugs to fungus gnats have been proposed, but current research indicates most species are self-fruitful, only rarely being cross-pollinated.

When successfully pollinated, the flowers produce seeds which have a nutritious oily coating called an 'elaiosome' which ants find irresistible. The ants carry the seeds back to their nests, enjoy their feast and discard the seeds where they come up willy-nilly in the garden.

Botanists have had difficulty defining the limits of the wild ginger genus. The splitters consider only 20 or so species to belong to the genus Asarum, relegating the other 60 species to three separate, closely related genera. The lumpers though seem to be winning the day and modern classification schemes recombine the groups as separate subgenera within the Asarum genus.

Wild gingers have a long list of ethnobotanical uses, not the least of which is as a substitute for the tropical ginger root. Wild ginger has a similar taste to tropical ginger but is only about one third as strong. In addition to its culinary use, it was also used as a part of the Native American pharmacopoeia, treating everything from infections to various kinds of internal ailments. Meriwether Lewis, probably under the instruction of Sacagawea, pounded the roots and leaves of wild ginger to form a poultice which they applied to Joe Potts' swollen and inflamed leg which he cut with a knife in Idaho's Bitterroot Mountains. He quickly recovered.

But in 2001, the Food and Drug Administration issued a warning against using wild ginger in cookery or as an herbal remedy due to the presence of aristolochic acid, a substance known to cause kidney failure and possibly cancer.

Wild gingers do well in moist, fertile woodland soils where they can grow undisturbed. Most are hardy from zones 4 to 8. They're ideal for use along walkways, in woodland rock gardens or as a groundcover. Once established, they're tough, thrive without special care and persist for many years. Clumps can be divided in early spring.

In Japan, wild gingers are collected by enthusiasts for their colorful mottled foliage and unusual but showy flowers. One nursery is offering more than 30 cultivars of these unusual gingers for hobbyists who're looking for a pot plant that's easier to grow than an orchid and can be left outside over winter.

For more information about horticulture or to see other "Plant of the Week" columns, visit extension's Web site, or contact your county extension agent. The Cooperative Extension Service is part of the U of A Division of Agriculture.

Plant of the Week: Pearlbush (Exochorda racemosa)

During the 20^th century, American gardens went through a transformation towards greenness.

A century ago, the shrubs in most American gardens were leafless in winter with spireas, lilacs, flowering quince, mock orange and forsythia being common. Evergreens such as yews and junipers began more common early in the century but azaleas and hollies didn't appear until mid-century.

Pearlbush, though no longer common, was one of the deciduous shrubs of this bygone era.

Pearlbush (Exochorda racemosa) is a member of the rose family and most closely related to the spireas, except pearlbush has a larger flower more reminiscent of an apple. It's a large shrub, growing 12 feet tall and wide, with thick, brown stems and a coarse overall texture.

Four species are known, with two in China and two in adjacent areas of central Asia.

Leaves appear early in the spring before flowering and are a medium green, whitish beneath, and 2- to 3 inches long. Unfortunately they don't produce any fall color. Odorless, pure white flowers are 1.5 inches across, five-petaled, with each petal narrowing at the base and produced from a cuplike calyx appear in mid-spring. Flowers are produced on a raceme at the end of each branch and, just before they fully open, resemble a strand of pure white pearls.

The name Exochorda comes from a cord (exo, or
outside, and chorde, a cord) that forms around the developing ovary, producing a dry fruit with five prominent ridges when it ripens in the fall. Though not invasive, it occasionally produces a seedling under its branches.

The common pearlbush is probably too large for most American gardens, but one of its hybrids, E. x macrantha 'The Bride' is more worthy. It grows only 3 feet tall and wide and is covered in pure white flowers each spring.

The venerable old nursery owned by Victor Lemoine of Nancy, France, introduced it about 1900. His son Emile probably did the actual breeding work. This firm was responsible for hundreds of lilac introductions and many of the still common mock orange, spirea and forsythia clones still grown today. It was probably the most important firm for new plant development in the world during the last third of the 19^th century.

Pearlbush is hardy from zones 4 through 8. Because it's relatively nondescript, except in flower, it's best used as a part of the shrub border or, in the case of 'The Pearl,' in the foundation planting. Plants should have at least six hours of sunlight and do best in a fertile, well drained loamy soil. It is unbothered by insect or disease and is very long lived once established.

For more information about horticulture or to see other "Plant of the Week" columns, visit the Cooperative Extension Service Web site, or contact your county extension agent. The Cooperative Extension Service is part of the U of A Division of Agriculture.

Alternative Crops and Diversification Keys to Farm Profits

Farmers can combat the tightening farm profit squeeze brought on by the current unstable global economy through diversification with alternative crops, says Dr. Obadiah Njue, Extension horticulture specialist with the University of Arkansas at Pine Bluff Cooperative Extension Program.

Just as diversification seems to be the key to softening economic losses in other sectors, diversifying farm enterprises can soften the impact of economic risk, offset commodity price swings, exploit profitable niche markets, improve local economy and strengthen rural communities, says Dr. Njue.

Consumer concerns with food safety strengthens the interest in locally grown produce. Alternative crops are also environmentally friendly as they break up insect pests, weed and disease cycles; supplement soil nutrients; improve soil structure; conserve soil moisture and curb soil erosion.

But, unlike conventional grain producers who use a relatively straightforward route of taking a harvested crop to the local grain elevator, alternative crop growers cannot expect a convenient marketing outlet. Instead, Dr. Njue advises they do the following:

• Research the market before planting.
  
• Understand the cultural practices of the crops selected.
  
• Develop a marketing plan with information on prices, delivery points and sales contacts.
  
• Establish relationships with potential buyers and understand their guidelines.
  
• Understand the Good Agricultural Practices (GAP) and Good Handling Practices (GHP).
  
• Understand Food Safety Guidelines.
  

Consider alternative crops that will be a good fit for your farm in terms of soil type, climate, labor, marketing skills and proximity to markets. Remember, diversity is the key to success of a small farm, says Dr. Njue. Grow for a diverse market and grow crops whose sales complement each other, especially when targeting local markets. Local markets include farmers' markets, farm stands and pick-your-own operations.

Alternative crops include blackberries, muscadines, persimmons, blueberries, strawberries, melon, tomatoes, peas, sweet potatoes and all types of organically grown vegetables. Other popular alternative crops are all kinds of peppers – purple, red, orange and hot; cole crops such as collards, kale, broccoli, Brussels sprouts; salad greens; and herbs.

Just as small farm diversification can be helped by embracing technology, changes in consumer demand, government policy and development of irrigation, roads and other infrastructure, it can also be hindered by risks in markets and prices, crop management practices and natural phenomena, says Dr. Njue.

Plant of the Week: Snow Pea (Pisum sativum)

In these unsettled times, vegetable gardens are back in fashion. In 2007, the vegetable transplant category moved from fourth place in annual sales to second place, behind only lawns. This all happened in the spring of 2007, before the economic meltdown of the fall, so no doubt even more people will be growing a vegetable garden this summer. Though it is still winter, pea planting time is just a few weeks away.

Peas (Pisum sativum) go by a variety of names—field peas, English peas, garden peas, snow peas—a testament to their long history of cultivation. They were domesticated during the Stone Age and caches of seeds in caves are used by archeologists to date the spread of mankind throughout Europe.

In Europe, the advent of agriculture more than 10,000 years ago revolved around cereal grains (especially wheat) and peas. In Asia, this two-part agricultural revolution centered on rice and soybeans; in the Americas, it involved corn and beans.

Cereal grains provided the carbohydrates needed for a healthy diet, while the legumes provided fats and proteins. This combination cropping system also worked well in early agriculture because the legumes, which fixed their own nitrogen directly from the atmosphere, grew well in nutrient depleted soils following the cereal crops.

The earliest Greek writers mentioned peas, but it was not until the Renaissance, when authors began describing the natural world in herbals, that a clear picture of the modern pea emerged. Even 400 years ago, most of the contemporary characteristics we ascribe to peas – dwarf forms, edible pods, and high sugar content – were known.

Garden peas largely differentiate themselves from field peas used for animal feed by flower color. Most garden peas have white flowers, while field peas have colored flowers. Pea cultivars with wrinkled seeds are favored over smooth-seeded kinds for garden use because wrinkled selections contain mostly sugar instead of starch.

Garden pea cultivars may be either vining plants with tendrils produced from the terminal position on the compound leaf, or freestanding bushes. The pods may be flat, as in snow pea cultivars, or rounded, as found in sugar peas or snap peas. In both cases the pods are edible, but if harvest is delayed too long past the point of "snapping," the round-podded cultivars develop a parchment-like lining inside, rendering them too tough to eat.

When selecting garden peas for the home garden, the wrinkled, non-vining selections such as Sugar Snap, Dwarf Gray Sugar, Wando and Little Marvel are recommended. Peas are cool weather plants and should to be planted when the soil temperature is around 45 degrees Fahrenheit, so earliness is a key to success. Successive plantings at two-week intervals will keep you in peas all spring.

A friend tells me she plants her peas in mid-February between bales of hay, making a kind of insulated mini-greenhouse to provide protection should the temperatures drop below 20. Soaking the seeds in a cup of water overnight before planting will speed emergence. Plant the seeds one and one-half inch deep, and one inch apart in the row.

Peas grown for shelling usually reach maturity (from seeding) in 60 to 70 days. But, because plants flower over an extended period, they must be harvested every couple of days to make sure the seeds don't get over-mature and turn starchy. If peas are eaten as green pods, pick the pods five to seven days after flowering, while the seeds are still about the size of a BB.

For more information about horticulture or to see other Plant of the Week columns, visit the Cooperative Extension Service web site, or contact your county Extension agent. The Cooperative Extension Service is part of the U of A Division of Agriculture.

Thirsty? Make Water Your First Choice

While it may still be cool and blustery outside, it's important to keep hydrated to stay healthy, says Carla Haley, Miller County extension agent with the University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture.

Water makes up about 60 to 70 percent of the human body and is essential for the body to function properly, says Haley. "We need water to regulate our body temperature and to carry nutrients to all our organs," she says. Water also transports oxygen to our cells, removes waste and protects joints. It's abundant, cost-efficient and has no calories.

So, people need to drink water every day to stay hydrated, but how much?

There are varying opinions, but an average person should drink about eight to 12 cups of water each day, says Haley. This makes up for water lost through normal bodily functions such as breathing, perspiration, and going to the bathroom.

"As a general rule, 1 quart of water is needed daily for each 50 pounds of body weight," says Haley. The exact amount depends upon many other factors, such as age, gender, weight, and amount of physical activity.

Don't wait until thirst sets in to take a drink, says Haley. Thirsty people may already be dehydrated. Sometimes, the brain isn't aware that the body requires more water. This can happen more often with older people. Keep drinking water often.

Fill a 64- to 96-ounce container with water at the start of the day and sip from it often. By the time the container is empty, the body will have its daily dose of water.

In rare cases, people can drink too much water. Visit a doctor if there are any concerns about drinking too little or too much water, or frequent thirst or urination. A doctor can help determine a daily amount of water best for an individual.

Haley offers a few suggestions for keeping adequately hydrated:

• Drink water instead of soda or caffeinated drinks at mealtimes.
  
• Add lemon, lime, orange or mint to water for a flavor boost.
  
• Buy snazzy water bottles for the family and keep them filled daily.
  
• Keep a container of ice-cold water in the fridge for quick refreshment.
  

It may take others time to adjust to getting more water in their diet. The health benefits, however, are well worth the effort, says Haley.

"Once people get into the water habit, the taste will grow on them, and they'll feel healthier too because they're not filling themselves up with sugars and calories that they just don't need," she says.

For more information on drinking water and keeping hydrated, contact your county Extension office or visit the Cooperative Extension Service web site. The Cooperative Extension Service is a part of the University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture.

Keep A Cool Head With Home Heating

Winter has a double bite – as the temperature goes down, heating costs rise. Families with home heating systems can use alternative methods to warm up and regulate their heating systems to save money, says Katie Cobb, White County extension agent with the University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture.

One way to save money on home heating costs is by setting the thermostat a little lower than normal – about 68 degrees during winter. Setting the thermostat comfortably low and dressing warmly can have a similar effect without turning up the thermostat, says Cobb.

"Wear a sweater to help keep you warm," she advises.

As with any home appliance, a home heating system should have regular checks and maintenance done to ensure it's working properly. Check and replace the dust filters inside the house once a month and have a technician clean and check the home heating system every year, Cobb recommends.

A malfunctioning system could cost extra money while performing poorly.

It may also help to install a programmable thermostat. These use pre-set times to heat or cool a room to the desired temperature. Most systems can hold six or more settings and can be manually overridden without changing any daily schedules, says Cobb. Look for the most energy-efficient models.

While at work or on an extended trip away from home, try setting the thermostat down about 10 to 15 degrees. "If you turn the thermostat back for at least eight hours a day, you can save approximately 10 percent on your heating bills," says Cobb.

Natural sunlight will also help warm the room, making the heater work less.

It's a common misconception that a home heating system works harder to bring a room to the desired temperature after it's been set back, says Cobb. The U.S. Department of Energy has disproven this myth with years of research and numerous studies.

Make sure the home is properly insulated to ensure that as little heat as possible is lost through the ceiling and walls. Seal gaps around pipes, duct work, and chimneys.

Most houses have sufficient insulation installed when the house was built. Older homes, however, may not have been held to the same standard. "If you have an older home, have an inspector check the insulation," says Cobb.

For more information on energy-efficient home heating, contact your county Extension office or visit the Cooperative Extension Service web site. The Cooperative Extension Service is a part of the University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture.

New Extension Publication - Encountering Native Snakes

The University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service has a new publication available to you entitled "Encountering Native Snakes in Arkansas." This publication has nice color pictures of snakes in Arkansas and ways to avoid snakes and control them if necessary.

The publicaton can be found here in a pdf format.

Home and Garden Show Time! Can Spring Be Far Away!

Do you have cabin fever or the winter blues and you can’t wait for spring? Just in time to cure those blues, comes the 2009 Home and Garden Seminar and Show Feb. 14 at the Pine Bluff Convention Center.

“The show will feature interesting displays and talks by experts in several fields,” said Don Plunkett, Jefferson County extension staff chair for the University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture.

The 21st annual show, which is free, opens to the public at 8 a.m. and ends at 4:30 p.m. It’s sponsored by the Cooperative Extension Service, Master Gardeners and the Pine Bluff/Jefferson County Clean and Beautiful Commission.

Plunkett said the show attracted more than 1,500 people last year.

Below are the seminars, starting times and speakers:

· Herbs You’re Going to Love, 9 a.m., Debbie Tripp
· Color and Design in Lighting Outside, 10:15 a.m., Diane Crowder
· Must-have Plants for the Garden, 11:15 a.m., Janet Carson
· Diabetics – Healthy Cooking, 12:45 a.m., Mary Ann Kizer and Vanessa Woods Evans.
· Bones of the Garden, 2 p.m., Michael Fess
· Creating the Wow Factor, 3 p.m., Chris Olsen

Plunkett said the show is seeking additional sponsorship for the event. The seminars will be in the Banquet Room, near the Registration area. Door prizes will be awarded.

For more information, contact the Jefferson County extension office at (870) 534-1033.

The Cooperative Extension Service is part of the U of A Division of Agriculture.

Now Is The Time For Shade-Tree Pruning

While most pruning can be done any time of the year, pruning shade trees is a job usually reserved for the winter months, which is a dormant season for plants, says Mark Keaton, Baxter County extension staff chair for the University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture.

Shade-tree pruning should be limited to shaping and removing dead, diseased or damaged limbs. Dehorning — the practice of cutting large limbs back to within a few inches of the trunk — should be done only in cases of severe injury by wind, ice or storm, Keaton says.

Remove only those limbs that interfere with the natural shape of a tree, advises Keaton.

“Dehorning won’t help shape a tree because a tree tends to assume the shape of its particular species anyway,” he says. “Dehorning can lead to insect and disease problems and severe dehorning can kill a tree.”

Blooming trees present special problems. Most won’t bloom if they’re pruned at the wrong time of the year. Dogwoods and redbuds should be pruned immediately after flowering, if it’s necessary to prune.

Pruning now won’t hurt them; it only will remove the flower buds, according to Keaton.

“Shrubs grown mainly for their flowers such as azaleas, forsythia, weigela, flowering quince and spring-blooming spireas should be pruned after they bloom,” he says. “They set their buds in late summer and fall, and pruning before spring removes flowering wood.”

Crepe myrtles bloom on current growth. This means they flower only on new wood. The more new wood, the more flowers. Pruning should be done just before new growth begins in the spring (late February-early March). Remove one-third to one-half of the last year’s growth.

Pruning is more than just cutting off limbs.

“A mistake can cost you a valuable landscape plant,” Keaton warns.

If you’re not sure how to prune a specific plant, talk to your county agent and ask for the “Pruning Ornamental Plants” publication. The Cooperative Extension Service is part of the U of A Division of Agriculture.

Small Steps Make Getting Organized a Manageable Task

We all have it. Whether it’s a drawer, room, garage or entire house, we all have at least one area in our homes that is always messy, cluttered and a headache to see. It may seem like too much of a mountain to climb, but you can get organized in small steps.

“It can be overwhelming, but organizing your desk, your home or even your junk drawer can be incredibly satisfying and freeing,” says Joy Buffalo, family consumer science specialist with the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service. “If you look at getting organized as a series of small steps, you can fit it into your schedule and see progress immediately.”

First step: Set small goals. It could be something as simple as collecting all the rubber bands in a drawer and making a rubber band ball or emptying the refrigerator of old food and almost-empty containers.

“That’s what keeps a lot of people from tackling projects like home offices and garages,” Buffalo says. “It looks like too much to even think about at first; but, if you tell yourself you are going to gather all the papers off the floor one day, the next day it won’t be so overwhelming to sort that pile.”

Next: Make a plan. How do you want the room to look? Do you see hooks on the wall to hang rakes, shovels and brooms in the garage? Shelves in the corner for a workstation? If your garage doubles as a lawn-and-garden center as well as automotive repair and storage, inventory what you need to keep in the area and how much room there is to accommodate it. Then, you will be able to sort what should stay and what should be stored elsewhere.

Speaking of sorting, divide your belongings into three piles: keep, donate and throw away. If you are sorting clothes, shoes and accessories in your closet, remember a few rules-of-thumb:
· If you have not worn it in two years, give it to a loved one or donate it to a nonprofit;
· If the item is ripped, stained or beyond repair, throw it out; and
· If the item no longer fits (and you have to be honest with yourself), give it away.

“Another thing to keep in mind is if you had it in high school or college and have not worn it since then, throw it out,” Buffalo says. “It won’t come back in style, and it’s only taking up room you need for other things.”

So approach getting organized the same way you’d go swimming in the lake for the first time in the summer: one toe at a time, and pretty soon, it’s all in.

For more information about getting organized, visit extension's Web site, or contact your county extension agent. The Cooperative Extension Service is part of the U of A Division of Agriculture.

Plant of the Week: Dogwood (Cornus stolonifera Isanti)

Mentioning the name dogwood usually conjures up images of white billowy trees with beautiful flowers. But in reality, dogwoods are a diverse group of plants with most species growing as sprawling shrubs, not trees. Some of these, especially the red twig dogwoods, have found their way into gardens.

Several species of dogwoods produce red twigs during winter with the Siberian Cornus alba (Tatarian dogwood)¸ the European C. sanguinea (Bloodtwig dogwood) and the North American C. sericea (Redosier dogwood) the most common in the nursery trade. These three species look much alike in leaf and growth form, differing primarily in fruit color and ripening period.

The red twig dogwoods are shrubs of the cool northland where they grow along streams in thick tangles whereas the flowering dogwood is primarily a plant of the South.

Cornus sericea (long known as C. stolonifera), the redosier dogwood, grows from Newfoundland, south through the Appalachian Mountains to Georgia, through much of the upper Midwest, and even scattered in high elevations in the Rocky Mountains. It, like most of the other red-stemmed dogwoods, has an aversion for heat and humidity so they typically occur in the wild in places where temperatures are cool and moist. Because of their northern heritage it is hardy to zone 2 north but only zone 7 on the southern end of its range.

Redosier dogwood (the word “osier” is an Old English name used to describe willows with long, slender stems used in basket making) is a stoloniferous deciduous shrub growing to 10 feet tall but forming thickets wider than tall. Leaves are 3 to 5 inches long and similar in appearance to the more common dogwood.

Selections of redosier dogwoods have been made throughout their range and provide a variety of growth forms and plant sizes. Stem coloration develops on the youngest branches after the leaves fall.

‘Kelseyi’ is a dwarf form growing only 2 to 2.5 feet tall and wide with small, twiggy bright red stems. ‘Isanti’ is a more upright form growing to 5 feet tall. ‘Cardinal’ is a good red-stemmed form growing to 8 feet tall. ‘Nitida’ and ‘Flaviranea’ are chartreuse to yellow-stemmed selections. ‘Sunshine’ is a white-variegated form with golden stems. A red-stemmed variegated form is also available.

Small, off-white flowers appear in late spring after plants have leafed out in flat-topped clusters to 2 ½ inches across. The flowers are not especially showy; in the fall they are followed by clusters of white berries.

Red twig dogwoods are best used in mass plantings or as a single specimen amongst a low-growing groundcover. In the summertime, except for the variegated forms, these plants are coarse and relatively nondescript. Their biggest impact comes in the fall when they shed their leaves. The bright red coloration is most effective when displayed against snow cover or, in areas where snow is uncommon during the winter, against an evergreen backdrop.

The red twig dogwoods do best in a uniformly moist, bright location with a moderately fertile soil. They will grow in moist areas where their roots can creep into the water but will not endure standing water. High temperature and humidity cause leafspot diseases that give plants a ratty look in hot parts of the country.

As the stems get older than 3 or 4 years old they begin to develop brown bark. Cutting the plant to the plant to the ground every few years in the spring before new growth begins helps control size and maintains bright wintertime stem color.

You can find more information about horticulture, see other Plant of the Week columns, or contact your county extension agent. The Cooperative Extension Service is part of the U of A Division of Agriculture.

Arkansas Master Naturalist - Northwest AR Chapter

If you were interested in the "Master Naturalist" news item but were unwilling to commute back and forth to the Little Rock area, there will be Northwest AR Chapter. The training will now be at the Hobbs State Park Conservation area. The "Northwest AR Chapter" schedule, dates, and application can be found here. Note the due date for applications is January 16th.

Cost is $135.00

Arkansas Master Naturalists - "Working to keep Arkansas in its Natural State"
Interested in the Master Naturalist program and live in NW Arkansas?

Becoming a Master Naturalist involves attending at least forty hours of initial training on Arkansas animals, plants, geology and conservation.

To become a Certified Master Naturalist you would then complete at least forty hours of volunteer work and eight hours of advanced training each year.

March 7th am-Eco-regions of AR Ellen Turner pm-Water Systems Dr. Robert Morgan

March 14th am-Geology pm-Herpetology Kelly Irwin -AGFC

March 21st am-Stream Team Dave Evans - AGFC

March 28th Trails Bert Turner - CAMN

April 4th am-Karst Darrell Pennington U of Ark pm-Bears/Large Mammels Jason Kindall - Ozark Sci Ctr.

April 11th Ornithology Ellen Turner

May 2nd am-Interpretation Kelly Farrell St Parks

May 9th am-Archaeology Jamie Brandon

May 23rd Graduation and Celebration


Email us with questions or comments.

Contact Anne Massey or call her at (501) 666-1411

"Garden Thyme" Seminar by Magnolia Master Gardeners.

The Magnolia Master Gardeners will be holding a "Garden Thyme" seminar on Saturday, January 31, at Immanuel Baptist Church in Magnolia, 1823 East North St. (right across the highway from Wal-Mart on Hwy 82)

The seminar will begin at 9:00 am and last until noon. Registration is $5. Proceeds are used for the MG sponsored Columbia County 4H Gardening Contest.

Speakers are Janet Carson, Extension Horticulture Specialist; Dr. Charles Allen - Botanist for Fort Polk, LA speaking on "Landscaping with Native Plants"; and Patty Bishop, President of Red Dirt MG in Texarkana speaking on "Chatting About Herbs."

Contact Janet Warren at 870-904-2258 or 870-515-0127 to register by phone.